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Keep Your PC Cool Email This
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December 2003 • Vol.7 Issue 4
Page(s) 204-205 in print issue
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Keep Your PC Cool
Learn To Maintain Your Computer’s Temperature
That annoying hum your computer sometimes produces is the only thing keeping it from a complete meltdown. Computer chips, most notably the PC's CPU, put out a lot of heat. As electrons move through all of those miniature circuits, they sometimes meet resistance. That resistance and the heat energy it produces starts to add up when you multiply it by all of the electrons bumping around in there. Only the constant flow of air over your system's components keeps them at a temperature at which they can operate. Today's powerful, fast processors require the constant whirring of different fans; if one goes bust, you need to know about it.

But It's A Dry Heat. CPUs have been getting hotter with each generation. Some of the latest CPUs can happily hum along at temperatures just short of boiling. Check your manufacturer's Web site or the documentation that came with your system to figure out the maximum operating temperature for your CPU. Most processors feel comfortable at 60 to 90 degrees Celsius, which works out to 140 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Knowing your CPU's limits is important if you think you might be pushing them. A CPU built to withstand 140 degrees Fahrenheit will not enjoy 200 degrees Fahrenheit.

Crossing that temperature threshold a bit does not automatically damage a CPU. Many systems will simply crash, leading to a much-needed cooling-down period. The CPU may work just fine again after the temperature subsides. Or you may receive strange error messages on your computer screen. Pentium 4 CPUs actually try to take matters into their own hands, switching off automatically when heat reaches a certain level.

In some instances your computer will continue working without crashing or experiencing other symptoms. Over time, however, all that heat shortens the life of the processor, even if outwardly the CPU appears to run just fine.

You can probably tell what's going on in your computer by tapping into tiny temperature sensors built into most modern motherboards. Your motherboard may have come with specialized software for displaying readings from these sensors in Windows. Check out your computer's documentation. These programs often provide you with real-time data on all kinds of interesting functions, including temperature and fan speed. Such software often includes an alarm function that lets you know when a value is beyond nominal.

If your system doesn't have such diagnostic software, there is shareware available to help you out. Motherboard Monitor 5 (http://mbm.livewiredev.com) is one example. It is a popular free program that works with many different chipsets and provides a highly customizable readout. You will need to adjust the software to suit your system, which can take some trial and error.

If you cannot locate any software for Windows, you may try accessing the data through your PC's BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) utility. In most systems you can access the BIOS by pressing a specific key or key combination during your computer's startup routine before any Windows screens appear. Consult your users manual or your computer manufacturer's Web site for information regarding which key or key combination you should use. The information may be included in on-screen instructions that appear during startup.

When you open the BIOS utility, use the menu to find temperature readouts. Compare those to the maximum for your specific processor. If the temperature appears anywhere close to the borderline, consider making some changes. Try this test after you've been using the machine for an hour or so for the most accurate reading.

Keep Your Cool. If your PC overheats, it might just need a change of venue. The cooler the ambient temperature in the room, the easier it will be for your computer to keep itself from overheating. Direct sunlight can heat up a machine, as well as heat vents, radiators, or space heaters.



Online retailers, such as FrozenCPU.com, offer a variety of fans, some of which even cast a ghostly blue glow.
From a temperature point of view, the ideal spot for your computer is one where it has some space to stretch out a little bit. A constricting location can hinder airflow, which causes your system's heat index to slowly rise. A good rule of thumb is to try to give your machine 12 inches of space on all sides.

Case size also makes a difference. All else being equal, a larger case will usually provide better airflow and cooling. Some manufacturers design smaller computer cases with airflow in mind, but others produce cramped and hot surroundings.

If you play around with several external factors and your computer's temperature still is on the high side, you might consider cooling your system internally. This will require you to open your computer's case, but some adjustments are quite simple.

A common airflow problem inside most PCs is the mess of cables running every which way. The flat ribbon cables that connect your hard drive, CD-ROM drive, and other devices to the motherboard are especially troublesome. To alleviate the situation, you could use cable ties to bundle the cables up out of the way. Don't secure cables to the motherboard; look for tie-down points on the inside of the case. You may also consider replacing the flat ribbon cables with rounded cables will improve airflow. There are numerous online retailers, including Crazy PC (http://www.crazypc.com), offering such cables.

In addition to bundling the cables, take care to clean out any dust. Spray a blast of compressed air around your system's innards every so often to minimize problems. Also, blow clean any fans you see. A few power supply fans include filters; be sure to clean these regularly if you can get to them without having to open the power supply.

Look at the back of your computer and you're bound to see a fan grill near the power cord. This is the power supply fan, which cools the inside of the power supply and also helps draw warm air out of the case. Test it by holding your hand near the fan grill. You should feel a stream of warm air blowing out. If not, you'll need to replace your power supply. Power supplies are categorized by wattage; look in your system manual or at the power supply itself to determine what size you have.

If the power supply fan seems to function, look for any other exhaust or intake fans your PC might have. You should notice air blowing out or being sucked in. Newer systems may have a fan on the side or in the front. Replace any fan that makes odd noises or fails to spin.

Chill Out. While we are on the subject of fans, let's look at the CPU cooling fan. It is a small unit mounted to a heatsink atop the processor chip. It spins air directly into the heatsink. The heatsink resembles a finned piece of metal atop the CPU, and its design provides a large outer surface for passing air to pick up heat energy and take it away from the CPU. The fan, in turn, provides a constant stream of air. If the fan stops working, your CPU can get hot very quickly.



Motherboard Monitor is one of many programs that can read and display data from temperature sensors built into most motherboards.
Fans will sometimes quit working without warning. Perhaps a cable or some other loose component is jammed in the blades, or maybe the fan simply failed. In most cases you'll hear evidence of something amiss. A good indication your fan is having problems is if you hear a buzzing noise or a funny droning sound coming from inside your com-puter. If your fan does go bad, you'll want to replace it right away.

Most large computer retailers will likely have a small selection of fans available. You can also check out online retailers, such as Frozen-CPU.com (http://www.frozencpu.com), for an idea of what is available. We suggest choosing a fan with a ball bearing rather than a sleeve bearing because of its reliability.

Most heatsinks you'll find are made out of aluminum; more expensive models are made of copper. An aluminum heatsink will run you about $10 to $15, with matching fans adding about $10. Just make sure that whatever you're getting will fit the type of processor in your system. You'll likely find your existing fan clipped to or screwed down to the heatsink. Disconnect the fan's little power cable, unlatch or unscrew the fan, and use it as a guide for sizing a new fan.

Another fan to throw in your cart is an exhaust fan. If your computer case has empty openings on the top or side for extra exhaust fans, fill at least one opening. Larger fans for outside air exchange come in several sizes, so measure your fan opening. These fans usually feature three numbers: rpm, CFM, and dB. The rpm measures how fast the fan blades turn in revolutions per minute. CFM is how much air the fan blows in cubic feet per minute. And the noise the fan makes is usually given in decibels (dB). What you'll want is a high CFM with low noise. Some fans come with a manual adjustment switch that can reduce rpms to match your needs. A few automatically adjust speed. A surprising number these days sport neon lights.

However fancy you get with your fans, remember to battle heat by blowing out dust once in a while, giving your PC a little airflow space, and making sure all those blades continue to hum their droning little tune.

by Alan Phelps




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