 If you’re starting to dream of pencil-thin, light-blue anacondas slithering through your front door and filling all the rooms in your home, it’s time to ditch the wires and build a wireless network. By equipping your home or office with an access point and a few wireless cards, you’ll have the freedom to use the Internet and other network resources anywhere. Want to take your notebook to the kitchen and browse stock quotes? Go ahead. Check sports scores on the porch? No problem. Freedom from wires means less mess and less chaosat a cost that isn’t much more than a wired network.
Installing and configuring a wireless network isn't difficult, but understanding the basic wireless components and where they fit in can help you determine how to build your network. In this article, you’ll discover the parts you’ll need, how to install them, and how to get them communicating in a cable-free environment.
 Harness The Hardware | 
On your wireless router, connect your broadband modem to the WAN (wide-area network) port and connect your PC to one of the open LAN (local-area network) ports. |
The two basic components in a wireless network are the access point and the wireless adapter that communicates with that access point. The access point serves as the base station for your network, emitting data signals that other computers on the network can receive and return. Each computer connected to the network needs its own wireless adapter to connect to the base.
Although we won’t delve into the technical specifics of the different wireless standards here (see the “Sifting Through Standards” sidebar for more information), keep in mind that devices using different standards generally won’t perform as well as devices using the same technology.
For example, although 802.11b adapters will work with 802.11g access points, older 802.11b cards can reduce the speed of the network. Therefore, if you have an 802.11g access point, it’s better if you use 802.11g adapters. Access points come in a variety of flavors, from plain access points to gateways to wireless routers. For security and flexibility, we recommend a gateway or a router because plain access points won’t let you share your connection and won’t provide firewall features that you’ll find in gateways and routers. (In this article, we use a router to build our wireless network.) The wireless adapters you need depend on the devices connected to the network. A desktop computer requires a wireless PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) expansion card, whereas a notebook needs a wireless PC Cardor you can use a USB wireless adapter to connect either a desktop or notebook computer. Thanks to their more robust antennas, PCI cards and PC Cards tend to offer better reception than small USB adapters, but some USB adapters include a wire that lets you move the antenna to a location that delivers more efficient reception.
Some notebooks and handheld devices include integrated wireless technology, so check your equipment before paying for hardware that you may not need. If your handheld device doesn’t include built-in wireless support, see if the manufacturer offers a flash memory-based wireless adapter.
Be sure the adapter you’re considering will work with your PC and OS (operating system); you can check the adapter’s packaging for its system requirements. Keep in mind that mixing and matching adapters and access points made by different manufacturers generally isn’t a problem, but you can avoid potential headaches if you choose equipment from the same manufacturer. Some, such as D-Link, integrate speed-enhancing technologies and other features that work only within their device family. (And if something does go wrong, life is simpler when you have only one tech support line to call.) | 
To install a wireless adapter inside your PC case, find an empty PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) slot on the motherboard and push the expansion card firmly into place. |
In addition to a router (or gateway) and wireless adapters, you’ll also need an Ethernet cable, a Phillips screwdriver, and an antistatic wristband (available at electronics stores). You also need your username and password for your Internet connection.
Perfect Placement
The next step is determining where to place the access point. The ability of PCs to connect to an access point is directly affected by several factors, including distance, obstructions, electronic interference, and the strength of the equipment’s antennas. Although some devices claim to deliver ranges up to 300 feet or more indoors, your actual range could be much less, especially if the signal needs to travel around or through walls or if your devices are competing with radio signals from a microwave or cordless phone. An ideal wireless network features a centrally located access point that delivers an effective signal to all devices. But placing your access point in a central location may not be convenient or even necessary. If you plan on connecting your broadband Internet connection to the network, you’ll need to place your access point and your DSL (Digital Service Line) or cable modem (assuming your access point doesn’t already include a built-in modem that works with your Internet service) near a phone jack or a cable wall outlet. | 
In order for the router to properly configure your Internet connection, it needs to know what type of connection you use. Check with your ISP (Internet service provider) if you're not sure.
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Because the lights on a modem are good indicators of your current DSL or cable status, it’s helpful to keep that modem near your primary computing station. Further, an access point and modem aren’t likely to blend in with the rest of your home décor, whereas they will blend in just fine with your existing computer equipment. If you plan to connect only stationary desktop PCs to your wireless network, and those PCs are relatively close, you don’t need to worry about the range in the rest of your home. However, a wireless signal won’t magically stay within the confines of your external walls. The closer your access point is to your external walls, the better chance someone outside those walls will have to access your network. (Although they won't necessarily be able to break in; we’ll cover security later in this article.)
Choosing a spot that doesn’t end up working well isn’t a big deal because moving your access point after installing your network isn’t that difficult. Besides, if you’re set on obtaining the best signal possible, it’s actually a good idea to consider such a move.
Get Down To Business
After finding a spot for your access point, you can configure it. For our example, we’ll describe the process for configuring a D-Link wireless router and a broadband modem, but if you have a different type of access point or don’t have a modem, follow the instructions included with your devices.
For the configuration phase, you’ll need to connect your primary PC directly to the access point, but you can connect wirelessly after the configuration is complete, assuming you have a wireless adapter for that computer. | 
Never leave the default SSID (Service Set Identifier) name on your access point; change it immediately to a name that isn't obvious, and then change it every month or two afterward.
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To begin, shut down your PC and switch off the power to your broadband modem. (The power switch is usually on the back panel.) Locate the Ethernet cable connecting your modem and your PC, disconnect the end attached to the PC, and attach it to the router’s WAN (wide-area network) port. Connect another Ethernet cable to the Ethernet port on the back of your PC and connect it to a numbered port on the back of the router.
Next, switch on the power to your modem and wait a minute or so for it to initialize. Connect the router’s power adapter to the back of the router, plug it in, and check to see that the power light on the front panel is on. Turn on your PC and check the router’s front panel to ensure that the WAN light and the corresponding LAN (local-area network) port light are both on. (If you plugged the second Ethernet cable into LAN port 1, the light for LAN port 1 should be on.) If either of these lights isn’t on, double-check your cable connections.
At this point, you’ll need to either install the software that came with your access point or type an address in your browser’s Address field to access a configuration screen. The D-Link equipment requires the user to perform the latter option, which displays the router’s configuration page and a setup wizard. First, the wizard asks the user to set an administration password, choose a time zone, and select the Internet connection type. Most DSL accounts use PPPoE (Point-to-Point Protocol over Ethernet), but it's possible that your connection might use a dynamic or static IP (Internet Protocol) address instead. If you’re not sure what to select, ask your ISP (Internet service provider). Also, the wizard asks you to type in the username and password for your Internet connection so that in the future it can automatically log in to your broadband account each time you turn on your computer.
Another step within the wizard asks you to enter an SSID (Service Set Identifier) name and a channel. You can keep the default channel that the utility recommends, but you should always use a unique SSID name to avoid potential security problems. Also, select the highest available WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy) encryption protocol your hardware offersor better yet, enable WPA (Wi-Fi Protected Access) encryption if your hardware includes it. You’ll need to enter a string of characters to enable these encryption methods and then use that same string when configuring adapters on other PCs, so write down the key exactly as you entered it and save it for later. These are the basic steps for configuring the router, but you can access the main configuration page to enable other features. For example, you can enable DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) to ease the configuration of any future IP address changes in the future. Wireless routers also include firewalls that you can tweak with specific rules that allow or disallow certain types of traffic. In addition, you can (and should) disable SSID broadcasting to prevent outsiders from finding your network.
Adapters Ahoy | 
Always check that the antennas on your access point and wireless adapters are firmly attached. You can rotate an antenna to aim it for better reception. |
After configuring your access point, it’s time to install the wireless adapters on whichever computers in your network you don’t intend to connect to the router with Ethernet cables. Just like access points, wireless adapters vary in their installation requirements, so always check the instructions included with your device before installing it. Most adapters require you to install software, but check whether you should install the software before or after physically installing the adapter.
Installing a USB adapter is as simple as plugging the device into a free USB port on a PC or a notebook and then installing any drivers, if necessary. The process is similarly easy for a PC Card: Just slide the card into a free PC Card slot on your notebook. Installing a PCI adapter in a desktop PC is a little more complicated because you have to open your PC’s case. To do so, shut down and unplug your PC (as well as any peripherals), remove the case’s cover, and put on your antistatic wristband (to prevent static electricity from damaging internal components). Locate an empty PCI slot on your motherboard, remove the screw holding the protective slot plate on the back of the case, and pull out the plate. Slide the card firmly into the slot, replace the screw, and properly close the case. Turn on your PC.
Your adapter’s software will walk through the configuration. When you see the security configuration area, input the WEP or WPA code you previously wrote down. Enable File & Printer Sharing After installing and configuring the adapter, you'll be able to access the Internet and take the steps needed to configure file and printer sharing throughout the network to share resources. WinXP: To enable file sharing in Windows XP, right-click Start and choose Explore to open Windows Explorer. Next, right-click a folder or hard drive letter, such as Local Disk (C:), you want to share in the left panel and select Sharing And Security. Under the Sharing tab, click the link that begins, If You Understand The Risk . . . . Next, choose the options you want, such as Share This Folder On The Network and/or Allow Network Users To Change My Files. Sharing a drive or folder will also share the subfolders below it. Setting up a shared printer is like sharing a folder. In the Control Panel of the machine where the printer is connected, click Printers And Other Hardware. Next, click Printers And Faxes. A window appears displaying icons for each installed printer. Right-click the printer you want to share and click Sharing. On the Sharing tab, click Share This Printer. If you like, type a name for the printer in the Share Name field. If your network includes computers running OSes other than WinXP, such as Windows 98, click Additional Drivers. Select the OS in use and click OK. You might need your Windows CD or printer installation CD to load the additional drivers. Then click OK.
Now, head to the other computers on the network and open up the Printer And Faxes window on each one. On the left, click Add A Printer. Click Next and choose the option for adding a printer attached to another computer. Click Next, and click Next again to browse for the printer on your network. Work through the Wizard For Windows to load up the right drivers and install the printer. Vista: Vista's network settings are somewhat different from WinXP's network settings, which means you might not be able to see WinXP computers on your network right away. Some related differences include the default workgroup name (it's MSHOME or WORKGROUP in WinXP Home and Pro, respectively, but just WORKGROUP in Vista) and file sharing (WinXP allows file sharing by default, but Vista doesn't and prompts users for passwords when they access the default share folder). Another difference is that the default shared folder in WinXP is Shared Documents; it's Public in Vista. Next, you'll need to make sure that your Vista PC is configured for a private network (it probably is). To do this, visit the Network And Sharing Center (Start, Control Panel, Network And Internet, and then click Network And Sharing Center) and make sure Private Network appears next to the Network title. If it does, you're all set. If it doesn't, click Customize, name your network, click the Private radio button, and then click Next. Finally, click Close. Now that your network is a private network, return to the Network And Sharing Center and then configure the Sharing And Discovery settings so all PCs can share files. To do this, click the arro next to file sharing and then click the Turn On File Sharing radio button. Click Apply. Repeat this process for Public Folder Sharing and Printer Sharing. Skip Password Protected Sharing, however, as this feature helps only PCs that share the same user account names. In some cases, you may still not be able to see WinXP computers that are on your network. Microsoft is aware of this issue and has released a Windows update (for your WinXP PC) that solves the problem. The LLTD (Link-Layer Topology Discovery) update is available at Microsoft's support site (support.microsoft.com). Visit the site and search for KB922120. Once you've downloaded the update and installed it on your WinXP computer, you can check to make sure that it has properly installed by opening the Control Panel on your WinXP PC and then clicking Network Connections. Right-click Local Area Network Connection, select Properties, and then make sure that the box next to Link-Layer Topology Discovery Responder is checked. Finally, return to your Vista PC and enter the Network And Sharing Center. Click View Full Map in the upper right corner of the Window. At this point, you should see your connected WinXP computers.
No More Snakes
After your network is up and running, don’t be afraid to dig into your router’s configuration menus to see what options are available. Although some tools included with routers and other devices are designed for advanced users, others are useful for anyone. For instance, some routers include parental controls that let you block certain URLs or domains. You also can find cable status utilities that tell you what cables are connected (or not connected) to your device.
But if you’re the hands-off type, rest assured that wireless networks require no maintenance once you properly configure them. Day in and day out, you’ll be able to count on a dependable connection that’s sublimely wire-free. 
by Christian Perry
Sifting Through Standards
When shopping for wireless home networking equipment, you’re likely to encounter more than one standard (or set of guidelines) on which manufacturers base the design of their equipment. Most of today’s devices use one of the various flavors based on the 802.11 standard, but you should understand some differences before you pull out your wallet.
The two most common standards are 802.11b and the newer 802.11g, both of which use the 2.4GHz frequency to transmit wireless signals. Devices such as microwaves and cordless phones also use this frequency, which could lead to interference with your wireless network, though you can decrease this interference by placing your network equipment far from these competing devices. The 802.11b standard features speeds up to 11Mbps (megabits per second), and considering that most broadband connections deliver far lower speeds, this standard is more than adequate for Internet use across your network. The 802.11g standard is backward-compatible with 802.11b and features speeds up to 54Mbps, though actual speeds can decrease with the presence of older 802.11b equipment in the network. Further, interference can affect high-speed 802.11g transmissions more easily than slower 802.11b transmissions.
Another standard, 802.11a, offers speeds similar to 802.11g, but it uses the 5GHz frequency and has less range than 802.11b and 802.11g. Products using 802.11a aren’t compatible with products using 802.11b/g, plus they are more expensive and generally harder to find. Users that receive too much interference from 2.4GHz-based devices might find 802.11a equipment useful, but their options are limited.
New to the standard scene is 802.11n, which boasts speeds of up to a whopping 540Mbps and potentially has a better range than other existing standards. Although 802.11n isn’t officially certified as a standard yet, rival groups currently working on the technology recently agreed to join and submit a final version of the standard for certification. In the meantime, several “pre-N” products are available that use 802.11n technology, but with a certified standard so close, it’s best that you either wait for certified products or use equipment based on tried-and-true standards such as 802.11b/g.
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Troubleshoot Your Network
Although nightmares of home networks past continue to haunt many users, you’ll be pleased to find that installing and configuring a wireless network is much easier nowadays. Of course, even though the wizards included with most devices are thorough and intuitive, problems can occasionally crop up. Luckily, it’s not too difficult to find and fix such problems.
If you encounter trouble, first check that all of your cables are secure, both in the access point and the modem. Even if a cable looks like it’s attached, it might be jutting halfway out, so do a push check on all your cables. Also, check that your network adapters are inserted and functioning on the networked computers. Most adapters have lights that shine when they’re functional.
If you’re getting a signal, but it occasionally drops off or disconnects altogether, you’re probably not receiving adequate signal strength. This problem can occur if computers are located too far from the access point or if there’s interference from other devices using the same frequency. First, check that the antenna on your access point and on any adapters is firmly attached, and if so, try angling the antenna(s) in different directions to obtain a better signal. If that doesn’t work, consider moving your access point closer to your computers, or move your computers closer to the access point. Also, move your equipment away from things such as microwave ovens and cordless phones.
Relocating equipment isn’t always an option for everyone, and for those users, a stronger antenna can help solve poor signal problems. See if your equipment has removable antennas; if this is the case, check online for high-gain antennas that have a higher decibel rating than the antennas included with your equipment. For more helpful tips, see the "Troubleshooting Your Wireless Network: What To Do When You Can't Connect" article at the SmartComputing.com Tech Support Center (www.smartcomputing.com/techsupport).
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