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Upgrading February 1999 • Vol.10 Issue 2 |
RAM Make The Most Of Your Programs With More Memory | ||
 It happens with even the best of computers. The same PC that was a joy when you pulled it out of the box can eventually become a chore to work with. Its once-peppy speed is now more of a sluggish trot. You still can get more miles and a satisfactory speed out of your old PC, however, by adding more random-access memory. One thing that's a constant in the software industry is bloat. New programs, or new versions of old programs, have an ever-increasing appetite for random-access memory (RAM). Fortunately, you never really run out of memory unless you manage to fill your hard drive. Windows 3.x, 95, and 98 all resort to using the hard drive as substitute RAM when needed, which means you won't ever run out of RAM. The more physical RAM you have, however, the less fake (hard drive) RAM you'll need, which means your computer will run faster.  How Much Do You Have?
In Windows 3.x, you also can check the amount of memory by launching the MS-DOS command prompt (double-click its icon in Program Manager, Main). At the C:\ prompt, type mem. The number under the Total column and the Total row is the amount of installed memory. Type exit to return to Windows. In Windows 95 and 98, right-click the My Computer icon and select Properties to display the amount of memory. Bare Bones Now that you know how much you have, it's time to figure out whether adding more RAM would help and if so, how much more you need. It's hard to say, but here's a rough guide to how much RAM you should have: •Windows 3.x: 12MB (suggested minimum), 16MB (optimum) •Windows 95: 16MB (suggested minimum), 32MB (optimum) •Windows 98: 32MB (suggested minimum), 48MB to 64MB (optimum) In each case, the operating system will run with less than half of the minimum amount of RAM we suggest. Getting your computer up to our suggested level would make a marked improvement in performance, but you could expect an even better boost by upgrading to the "optimum" level. For example, officials at Kingston Technologies, a major memory manufacturer, say tests show Windows 98 gains a 45% to 65% performance improvement when you upgrade a computer to 64MB or more. A closer estimate of the amount of RAM that would work best for you hinges on what you use your computer for and your usage habits. If you tend to have many programs open at once, you need more memory than if you have just a couple open. The complexity of the programs you use also plays a role. Are you using standard word processing and World Wide Web browsing software or more memory-intensive graphics, mathematics, or design programs? For a better idea of what memory levels are recommended for your computer, look at Kingston's Memory Assessor at http://www.kingston.com/srch/assesment.htm. Choose Your Memory So, you decided you want to upgrade. Now you need to figure out what kind of RAM chips your computer has. Does the computer use single inline memory modules (SIMMs) or dual inline memory modules (DIMMs)? If SIMMs, are they 30-bit or 72-bit SIMMs? There are three ways to find out: check your manual, check an online memory configurator, or pop the computer's case open and have a look. The first choice requires little explanation, so we'll focus on the other two. Memory configurators. Some memory manufacturers and online mail-order stores offer a free service on the Web where you enter the make and model of your computer, and it tells you what kind of memory it requires. Many configurators also tell you the number of memory chips the manufacturer installed. For example, Viking Componets' is at http://config.vikingcomponents.com. Open up. The manual and memory configurator are handy if your computer hasn't been upgraded before. If your computer is reporting a different amount of memory than the manual says the computer shipped with or the memory configurators list as the base configuration, you should pop the case open to check whether there are any open slots for new memory modules. Before you open your computer's case, shut down your computer, turn it off, and unplug it. Now you're ready to open the computer. Determine which screws, if any, you'll need to remove to slide the cover off. Some computers have no screws; you just pull up on a couple of tabs and slide the cover off. If you're unsure which screws to remove, consult your computer's manual. Once the cover is off, ground yourself by touching the computer's metal case. Now look for a series of slender 1-inch tall by 4-inch wide circuit boards; they're probably green with small black chips attached. Usually, the RAM chips are near the central processor (the huge chip with a fan or large block of metal on top of it). If you can't find the chips, look for four identical empty sockets—on some computers, the factory-installed RAM is soldered onto the motherboard, not in the sockets. If the sockets are empty, it'll make upgrading a breeze; you'll just need to check your manual or a memory configurator for the type of RAM to order and then pick the amount you want. Once you find the memory chips, you can make a list of what you have installed. If there are no empty sockets, don't worry. You'll just have to remove some old modules to make way for new, bigger ones. Don't immediately rip out the old modules, however, because they can tell you a little about what kind to order. You can tell by the number of pins what type of memory you have. The three major types of memory chips are: 30-pin SIMMs (used with 386-series processors), 72-pin SIMMs (used with 486-series and some Pentium processors), and 168-pin DIMMs. SIMMs can differ not only in terms of pins, but whether they are parity or non-parity SIMMs. You can tell the difference by counting the number of chips on a SIMM. SIMMs with 2, 4, 8, or 16 chips are non-parity SIMMs; those with 3, 6, 9, 12, or 18 chips are parity SIMMs. You don't want to install parity and non-parity SIMMs in the same PC. Other Caveats When selecting SIMMs, you also need to check the access speed and Extended Data Output (EDO) compatibility. Make sure the access speed of the SIMMs or DIMMs you're buying meets the PC's minimum requirements by either checking the manual, a memory configurator, or the old module. The speed is denoted on each memory chip of a module with the last number in a series of letters and numbers. For example, 4P1024DJ-07 indicates an access speed of 70 nanoseconds (ns). If you have a Pentium processor, you'll also need to check your manual or a memory configurator to see whether your computer requires EDO memory chips. If you install non-EDO chips, the computer might not boot up. If it does boot, it will run slower than if you had installed EDO chips. Place Your Order & Install Now, you can figure out what size modules you must order. You have two options: You can keep some of the modules and replace others or replace all of them. You'll have to figure out the math to see what kind of configurations you can have. Just remember that with Pentium processors that use SIMMs, you have to install the SIMMs in pairs (for example, two 16MB SIMMs and two 4MB SIMMs). On the other hand, 386 processors require sets of four 30-pin SIMMs, but can support single 72-pin SIMMs. On 486 and Pentium II processors, you can install single memory modules.
Before you remove any RAM chips from their plastic packaging, touch the computer's case to ground yourself and discharge static electricity. Vertical Removing. Use both hands to spread the two metal clips on each end of the SIMM apart while gently pushing the SIMM forward, so it leans down. After the SIMM is slanted at a 60-degree angle, pull it out at that angle. Installing. Instead of trying to insert the SIMM by pushing it down, line up the notch (on 72-pin SIMMS) and the pins with the socket and tilt the SIMM at a 60-degree angle to the socket. Keeping the SIMM at that angle, push it into the socket. Push the SIMM in as far as it will go, then hinge the SIMM up, pushing down and over at the same time. There will be some resistance when the SIMM reaches the metal holding clips, but continue to push the SIMM until the clips lock. The SIMM should be absolutely flat in the socket. Remove and reinstall if the module is not firmly locked into place. Angled Removing. Use both hands to spread the metal holding clips apart, then push the SIMM forward until it is standing straight up. You then can easily pull the SIMM up and out of the socket. Installing. Push the SIMM directly down into the socket, making sure the notch (on 72-pin SIMMs) and pins line up with the socket. Once the SIMM is as far down into the socket as it will go, push it forward toward the metal holding clips. Continue pushing until the clips lock. Remove and reinstall if the module is not securely locked. DIMM Removing. Press the retaining clips down and away from the DIMM socket to eject the DIMM from the socket, then lift it out. Installing. Match the two notches on the bottom of the DIMM with the raised notches in the socket, then push the DIMM down into the socket until the retaining clips pop up and lock. Even though your memory is now installed, don't pop the PC's cover back on just yet. Plug your computer back in and let it boot up first. You may get an error message when the computer detects the new memory; just follow the on-screen directions or consult the manual to fix the error. The computer needs to update the amount of memory it thinks it has. It should automatically detect the new value and simply ask you to confirm it. You might need to type in the new value yourself, though. If your computer won't boot after you install the memory, try reinstalling the memory. If that doesn't work, make sure you're installing the right type of memory. Once your computer is working, replace the cover. Your programs will run faster and your computer should crash less. All this speed comes for about $4 to $5 per megabyte of memory and will only take about 15 minutes of work.  by John Lalande
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