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| How To Install . . .Motherboards |
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Installations October 1999 • Vol.7 Issue 10 |
How To Install . . .Motherboards | ||
Replacing a motherboard is not the most trivial of tasks, but it doesn't require any special skills. All you need is the ability to use a few basic tools, follow instructions, and pay attention to detail (plus a bit of background knowledge and patience). The project seems difficult largely because of the time and effort involved. The increased performance of your personal computer, its additional features, and your sense of accomplishment, however, will make that effort very worthwhile. Due to rapid advances in technology, most motherboards are all but obsolete within a couple of years, and it is not uncommon for hobbyists to upgrade their entire system every year or so. Many times, if you are upgrading your processor, you will also need a new motherboard. Because almost every device connects to the motherboard in some way and will need to be removed or disconnected for the replacement, you may find this the perfect time to perform other upgrades, as well. Though many believe that PC performance gains result primarily from faster processors, improvements in input/output (I/O) and memory transfer rates can provide some rather dramatic results, too. Even a motherboard that is only a year old may not be able to take advantage of the capabilities of the newest hard drives, video cards, and memory.  Motherboard Basics. One of the greatest benefits of replacing your motherboard yourself is you will gain invaluable knowledge about the workings of your system. This will enable you to make more intelligent future hardware choices. The motherboard determines to a large degree what devices your system can use and what features are available to it. A motherboard essentially contains a central processing unit (CPU), memory, and a collection of expansion slots for I/O devices. The CPU is the part of the computer that performs all calculations and data manipulation. Memory is a temporary holding place for executing programs and the data being worked on, and it is commonly referred to as random-access memory (RAM). I/O devices include the keyboard, monitor, hard drive, CD-ROM, and most other peripherals. All these devices need a controller to coordinate the data transfer between the device and memory and between memory and the CPU. The controller circuitry is implemented in a small integrated circuit (IC), which may also contain a number of other device controllers. These ICs make up the chipset.
For two devices to communicate, they need a pathway on which the data can travel. This pathway is called a bus. There is a bus between the CPU and memory and several between memory and the other devices. Each particular bus has a certain width and speed that together determine the overall throughput (called the bandwidth). Just as more cars can travel simultaneously on a freeway with more lanes, more bits can travel at the same time with a wider bus. The bus speed is like the speed limit on the freeway where all the cars are traveling together at the same speed. Everything that happens in a computer system is driven by a clock signal. Every clock ‘tick' is one cycle and indicates an action can occur. (One cycle per second equals one hertz.) When the number of cycles per second reaches a million, it is called megahertz (MHz). Bus speeds are given in MHz, just as CPU speeds are. Each bus has its own clock, which determines its speed. The connectors into which controller cards plug are expansion slots. There are three types of expansion slots used on current motherboards, and each one has its own particular bus. 1.ISA bus. The Industry Standard Architecture (ISA) bus is 16 bits wide and runs at 8MHz. The ISA slot allows a system to use either 8-bit or 16-bit cards. 2.PCI bus. Introduced by Intel in 1992, the Peripheral Components Interconnect (PCI) bus has become the most prevalent connector used on computers today. This bus is 32 bits wide and runs at up to 33MHz, making data transfers much faster than is possible with the ISA bus. Only PCI cards can plug into the PCI slot. If you are purchasing any new expansion cards, you should seriously consider getting them with a PCI interface, rather than an ISA interface. 3.AGP bus. One additional bus/connector, the Advanced Graphics Port (AGP) bus, will be present on most new motherboards. Introduced by Intel in 1997, it is a 32-bit bus that runs at 66MHz and has optional double (2X) and quadruple (4X) data transfer rates. If you are planning to use graphic-intense programs on your system, such as three- dimensional (3-D) games, you may want to use an AGP video card. Some older systems may use an expansion card to connect hard drives, diskette drives, and CD-ROMs. Today, these connectors are on the motherboard. The most common type of hard drive used is an Integrated Device Electronics (IDE) drive. These usually have the controller built into the drive itself, eliminating the need for a separate controller card. Generally speaking, you should connect everything you can to the motherboard unless the expansion card has features that the motherboard doesn't offer. Not only will installation be simpler but you also will save expansion slots and will usually get better performance. Upgrade Options. For several years, Intel (http://www.intel.com) owned more than 90% of the chipset market. Now, however, companies such as the VIA Technologies Inc. (http://www.via.com.tw), Acer Laboratories Inc. (ALi, http://www.ali.com.tw) and Silicon Integrated Systems Corp. (SiS, http://www.sis.com.tw) all produce popular chipsets, which means you have a choice of what chipset to buy. Traditionally, the view of Intel's chipsets is they are the most stable, the highest performing, and the most reliable. Many chipset makers, however, are challenging this thinking. Because Intel doesn't make chipsets for Advanced Micro Devices Inc. (AMD, http://www.amd.com) and other non-Intel based processors, other companies are making a dent in the chipset market. Plus, the non-Intel chipset-based motherboards are generally less expensive than the Intel-based motherboards. Cache size should also be a consideration in your motherboard choice. Cache is a sort of temporary repository of data that the CPU has recently used. Cache theory says there is a good chance that recently used data will be used again, so it should remain close to the CPU. Cache memory is at least 10 times faster than system memory (but also much more expensive), making it a very desirable feature for good performance. In some cases, the cache may be on the processor; in other cases, it is attached to the motherboard. Cache sizes today range from 512 kilobytes (KB) to two megabytes (MB). More cache is better, but more cache will mean a slightly higher price. One of the most interesting developments in the past few years has been the integration of video, sound, and other features on the motherboard. Manufacturers find integration attractive because it allows them to offer more functionality while reducing their cost. The result is a reduced need for expansion slots, which means smaller motherboards with fewer sockets. The first integrated motherboards had very low-end graphics and sound controllers included on them as a cost-saving measure for manufacturers. Today, manufacturers are able to include much better features at little or no additional cost, and at the same time, they are making upgrading much simpler. The cost of a new motherboard can range from less than $100 to about $200, depending on its features. Processors have a much wider price range, typically between about $80 and $500, while memory runs about $1 per megabyte. Sometimes vendors who specialize in catering to hobbyists will offer bundled specials that include the motherboard, processor, and/or memory at a slightly lower price than if you bought each item separately. Another advantage of purchasing all components from the same vendor is that if one of the components fails or you need assistance with the upgrade, getting support or a replacement is much simpler. If purchasing via mail order, you can also save on shipping costs when you purchase all your components together. Special Considerations. The motherboard you choose must fit into the PC case you will be using, which is called the form factor (the size of the device in physical terms). There are two form factors available today: Baby AT and ATX. Both of these form factors have a few minor variations. When IBM introduced the PC AT personal computer, it included a new motherboard standard: Full AT. The size of this motherboard was later reduced to 8.5 inches wide by 13 inches long. This is known as the Baby AT and is still the most predominant form factor. As chipsets became smaller and took up less motherboard real estate, the manufacturers shortened the boards to 8 or 9 inches to save on costs. They are therefore called 2/3 or 3/4 Baby AT. Intel introduced the ATX form factor to reduce cable clutter, improve airflow across the CPU, and make room for full-length expansion cards (which were much more common several years ago). An ATX motherboard is almost like an AT board turned 90 degrees. The dimensions are 12 inches wide and 9 inches deep with a Micro ATX motherboard as short as 5 inches deep. The mouse port, parallel port, and serial ports are all on the motherboard, unlike the AT form factor, in which they are attached to the motherboard via a cable. The power plug has eight additional pins (20 pins vs. 12 pins) that provide additional power features. Two additional form factors exist but are available only to large computer manufacturers (called original equipment manufacturers [OEMs]). These are known as NLX and LPX form factors. You can identify them by a single daughtercard that has all the ISA and/or PCI slots on it. If you have a computer system with one of these motherboards, you will not be able to upgrade it without replacing the case. Of course, the processor must fit into the motherboard, as well. Today, there are three types of processor packages: Socket 7, Slot 1, and Socket 370. The Socket 7 processors include Intel Pentium and Pentium with MMX, AMD K5 and K6 lines, Cyrix 6x86 and MII lines, and Integrated Device Technology Inc. (IDT) Winchip and Winchip-2 lines. Intel stopped making Socket 7 processors several years ago and introduced the Pentium II using the Slot 1 package, which it also uses for its new Pentium III line. Most recently, Intel introduced the Socket 370 for its Celeron line and will soon begin using it for its Pentium III processor line, as well. If you will be using the memory from your old system, you need to be sure it will work in your new motherboard. Memory may be one of two types: single in-line memory module (SIMM) and dual in-line memory module (DIMM). SIMMs are either 30-pin or 72-pin. The 30-pin SIMMs are shorter than the 72-pin modules and were used in many systems up through the 486—they are no longer supported. The 72-pin SIMM is also rapidly becoming obsolete. However, you can still find motherboards that support them. If you will be purchasing new memory, it would be advisable to buy DIMMs, which are usually cheaper. Unlike SIMMs, the DIMM modules do not need to be installed in pairs so you can purchase just one and add more later. (WARNING: Never mix SIMMs and DIMMs on the same motherboard, as damage may occur to the modules.) Many newer motherboards have a limited number of available ISA slots. This is why you need to make sure the motherboard you choose will be able to use all the expansion cards you will be bringing from the old motherboard. If you are replacing some or all of your expansion cards, you will find that most expansion cards come only with PCI connectors, including sound cards and modems. In this case, make sure the motherboard has sufficient PCI slots for all your cards. Upgrading the motherboard is not that difficult, but it is time consuming. Expect to spend at least one hour with the hardware alone. You may also find you need to install drivers and utilities to allow the operating system to recognize all the features of the motherboard. Occasionally, you will need to reinstall the operating system so your system can detect and set up all devices properly (this is only a possibility if Windows 95 or Windows 98 are being used). Installation. Before you do anything, you should read this article in its entirety to make sure you understand all the instructions. Follow the instructions carefully, otherwise you may find yourself with a non-working system because of mishandling, or you may lose all your data. You should also read through the users manual for your new motherboard. This will allow you to identify the location of all the slots, jumpers, switches, connectors, and any other important devices. Many users manuals include helpful tricks and tips about handling, installing, and configuring the motherboard.  Read the article "Step One" before proceeding. 2 Take a good look at your new motherboard to make sure everything is in working order and that you have all the necessary parts for the upgrade. You should inspect the bottom of the board for any visible signs of impact or scrapes. Also examine the sockets where you will install the CPU, memory, I/O cards, and cables. Make sure all tabs that hold the component in place are in good shape (CPU fan, memory modules) and that none of the sockets has any cracks or broken pieces (these are made of plastic). 3 Every new motherboard should come with at least three items: a users manual or quick reference card (or both), a set of cables, and a driver/utility diskette or CD-ROM. The users manual or quick reference guide is the most important, as it contains all the configuration information for setting up the motherboard with your processor and memory. Some manufacturers put the complete manual on the CD-ROM and include only a reference card, which should contain all the important configuration information you will need to complete the installation. 4 You need to identify each cable or wire connected to the old motherboard so you can reconnect each one to the right place on the new motherboard. This includes the diskette and hard drive cables, the wires for the front panel lights and switches of the case, and the power connector. As you remove each one, mark it with a small piece of tape or draw a sketch of the motherboard so you know where to put everything during the reassembly process. 5 Hard drives, diskette drives, and CD-ROMs connect using a ribbon cable, which is a flat, wide cable that is usually gray in color. There will be only one diskette drive cable and one or two hard drive (IDE) cables. If you have two IDE cables, you need to mark which one is connected to the primary connector to make sure you plug them into the new motherboard in the right place. Usually, you can determine this by looking on the card or on the motherboard where it plugs in. You should see the words "Primary" and "Secondary" or "IDE1" and "IDE2" silk-screened next to the connector on the old motherboard or expansion card. One edge of the ribbon cable will be red or blue, which signifies Pin #1. Make sure you can easily identify this; you might even make your own marking to make it more obvious. If you connect it backwards, you can damage the drive or ruin diskettes. 6 The wires for the front panel lights and switches on the case may already be marked. Generally these wires have a flat plastic connector on the end with the associated light or switch name on it (such as Reset, Power LED, HDD LED, and Speaker). If this is not the case, trace each one back to its origin and put a piece of tape around the wire with the information. Your CD-ROM may also have a wire that connects to the sound card, which enables you to play music CDs through the speakers— make sure you make a note of that.
At this point, you should be able to remove the motherboard from most computer cases. Some small desktop cases, however, may require the removal of the drive bays or power supply (or both). If necessary, unplug the power plugs, remove the screws, and carefully take out the necessary items, again making a note of how you need to reinstall them. Some cases have a slide-out rack, which is a removable plate to which the motherboard attaches. If your case has this feature, you will find it much easier to first remove the rack or plate before attempting to remove the motherboard from the case. 9 Locate the screws that secure the motherboard to the case and remove them. There will be at least one and perhaps as many as three or four. In order to prevent a short circuit, the motherboard sits on a combination of brass and nylon standoff posts. The screws holding the motherboard in place connect to the brass standoffs, which are in turn screwed into the bottom of the case or motherboard rack. The nylon standoffs are pushed up through the small holes in the motherboard and attach to the case by sliding into a slot.
11 Once you remove the motherboard, you can extract the nylon standoffs by pinching the tabs on top with needle-nosed pliers and pulling them down through the bottom of the motherboard. You will need to reuse these on the new motherboard, so be sure to put them in a safe place. 12 If you are reusing your old memory, remove it from the motherboard as follows. There should be a tab at each end of the module, holding it into the socket. For the SIMM modules, pull the tab away and tilt the module back until it pops up slightly out of the socket. Remove DIMM modules by pushing the tabs straight down until the module pops out of the slot, then simply lift the module out. 13 It is usually a good idea to set all jumpers and DIP switches before installing the new motherboard, and you may also want to install the CPU and memory at this time. Consult the motherboard owners manual for instructions on setting the CPU voltage and speed (bus speed and CPU multiplier) and the memory voltage. Some motherboards now automatically detect these settings, making the job much easier. If you are unsure how to install the CPU or memory, refer to the "How To Install. . . CPUs" and the "How To Install. . . Random-Access Memory" articles in this issue. 14 Locate the holes in the motherboard where you may use the standoffs. You may use the holes that have a silver insulator surrounding them for either the nylon or brass standoffs. Those holes without the insulator can only have the nylon standoffs inserted. Don't feel compelled to put a standoff in every hole, as there may not be a corresponding slot in the case. 15 You will need to insert the nylon standoffs into the proper holes in the new motherboard. Most cases will have several possible locations for the standoffs, so you need to identify which ones your motherboard will use. Lower the motherboard into the case or onto the removable rack and determine where you need to use the standoffs. Sometimes you will find one of the old brass standoffs in the case does not have a corresponding hole in the motherboard; you need to remove this standoff. Direct contact between the motherboard and the case (or anything attached to it) can cause a short circuit and possibly even damage the motherboard. 16 You may also find your new motherboard is shorter than the old one, and does not have any support at the front. This is not a problem, as the only requirement is the motherboard does not touch the case. 17 You are now ready to install the new motherboard. Insert the nylon standoffs in their proper holes from the bottom of the motherboard. Make sure to push them all the way up until the clips snap into place. Lower the motherboard into the case or onto the rack so the bottom tabs on the standoffs fit into the proper holes and slide the motherboard into place. Locate the brass standoffs and secure the motherboard to the case with screws. 18 If you removed the power supply or hard drive racks, reinstall them. If you happen to have a removable motherboard rack, put that back into the case, as well. 19 Attach the cables and wires to the motherboard using your notes and the motherboard owners manual. Many older computers may have Turbo LED and Turbo Switch wires that a current motherboard will not use. You can tape up or tie these wires in a knot so they are out of the way. Make sure that Pin #1 on the hard drive, diskette drive, and CD-ROM cables are oriented properly, using the motherboard manual as a reference. 20 If you have an AT-style case, you will also need to attach the parallel and serial cables. These should have come with the motherboard. Do not use the cables from your old motherboard because not all manufacturers use the same pinouts (functions) for the serial ports, so using the old cables may cause them to be non-functional. 21 Install all your expansion cards by pushing them straight down into their respective slots and attaching them with the screws you removed earlier. If you have an AT-style motherboard, you need to make sure you have a place to attach the brackets for your parallel and serial ports. Some cases have special ‘punch outs' that allow you to remove the parallel and serial connectors from the bracket and install them directly to the back of the case. This can be very useful if you have a lot of expansion cards or a limited number of expansion slots.
23 On rare occasions, the tabs and grooves will not line up correctly. When this happens, you may need to trim the plug with a sharp knife. This is very unusual, however, and a little diligence and patience are normally all that you need. 24 ATX power supplies have a single 20-pin connector you can only install one way. Simply line up the tabs on both the socket and plug and push down until it snaps into place. 25 You can now reconnect your external devices, such as the mouse, keyboard, and monitor. Because you still have to test the installation, you should only install what is necessary. Leave the case open so you can make any necessary adjustments. 26 Plug in the power cord and turn on the system. If you connected everything properly, you should see the system begin to boot. The motherboard will first run its power on self test (POST) routine to check the memory and identify certain devices. 27 During the POST routine, you should see a message indicating how to enter the complementary metal-oxide semiconductor (CMOS) setup, which is where the system maintains the current date and time, what hard drives are attached to the system, and other basic information. Usually you can use the DELETE key to enter the CMOS during POST. 28 Either the first or second menu item should be Standard CMOS Setup. This is where you will adjust the date and time. You can also set up the hard drive sizes here, but in most cases you should set these to Auto Detect. The only other setting you may want to change is to indicate the type of diskette drives you have for the A: and B: drives. If you do not have a B: drive, set the value to Not Installed. Pressing the ESC key will usually take you back to the main menu. 29 It is also a good idea to select the Load Setup Defaults menu item the first time you power up the motherboard. This makes sure all the CMOS fields have valid values. If you don't do this, very strange things can occur because it is these values that determine the settings for all the chipset controllers. 30 For more information on CMOS setup, refer to the articles in this publication on installing the CPU, RAM, and hard drives. Exit the CMOS by choosing the Save And Exit menu item. It will ask for confirmation, so type a y and press ENTER. This will cause the motherboard to reboot. Finishing Touches. One final step you may need to perform is to install specific motherboard drivers. These are special programs that work with the operating system to recognize and take advantage of special features of the chipset. Refer to the motherboard documentation to find out if you need to install any drivers. by Dean Kent
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