But this convenience comes with a heightened risk of wear and tear on components that are frequently miniaturized for portability. According to a study by technology research and consulting firm Gartner, notebook PCs are far more prone to breakdown than desktop machines: Notebooks fail at three times the rate of desktops within their first year and nearly double the desktop rate within four years. Although some failures are relatively minor, such as latches, more often it involves components crucial to the laptop’s operation.

Product information. It shouldn’t require much more than a quick glance at your notebook PC to identify what it is. If there’s any doubt, however, right-click Windows’ My Computer icon and select Properties, and the General tab will furnish the particulars on your computer and operating system. You can find the same information in Windows Vista. Click the Start Orb and then right-click Computer. Select Properties. The System Properties window displays your notebooks key information.

However, the identity of one crucial component will be less obvious: the battery. The surest way to find the battery's model number is to remove it and look for stickers or other identifying marks.

Working status. When any computer stops working properly, trouble can manifest in many different ways, from subtle system instability to outright refusal to boot.

Most performance issues that may crop up with notebook computers can just as readily befall desktop PCs: hardware and software conflicts, bad RAM, hard drive and optical drive failure, system slowdown, and so on. You can find information on troubleshooting these components elsewhere in this issue. Although some overlap is inevitable, here we’ll focus on issues specific to notebook computers.

Despite their cosmetic and component differences, desktop PCs are usually quite similar to one another in construction, with comparatively roomy cases in which parts are easy to see and reach. Laptop computers, on the other hand, often differ substantially in their internal layouts; as well, their cases are tightly packed and present varying degrees of difficulty in accessing components. Because of that, a few words of caution are in order:

Before tackling an internal hardware problem, assess your tolerance for the rigors of a painstakingly precise job, even if you have experience tinkering inside desktop PCs.

Before taking anything apart, gather as much information on your computer model as you can, from the manufacturer as well as online forums and other resources. Find out if special tools are needed for opening the case, etc.

Before doing any internal inspections or repairs, don't just unplug your laptop PC from its power transformer. Remove the battery, too . . . an often-overlooked precaution. Also, discharge any static electricity from your hands.

Power & Battery

Statistics vary (don’t they always?), but some repair technicians report that power issues comprise the majority of jobs they handle.

Problem: I can’t power on the computer, or when I try, all that activates is the fan and one or more status lights.

Solution: When a notebook won’t boot, it may indicate a problem such as hard drive failure. Then again, it may only be due to a faulty power supply, which has either conked out entirely or has malfunctioned and now delivers insufficient power.

First, rule out a battery problem; even if the battery isn’t totally dead, a bad one can still cause crashing, freezes, etc. Remove the battery and try starting up directly from the power adapter, which converts the wall outlet’s AC current down to the lower DC current your notebook uses—typically around 20 volts. Most laptops will operate without a battery, but some require one in working order to be installed. If you’re unsure if your computer will run without a battery, consult the manufacturer.

Make sure the power converter is operating properly. Some converters have a status LED (light-emitting diode) to signify this. It’s also possible that the converter is fine but a cord has gone bad. A typical power converter has two cords: one leading in from the outlet and another leading out to the computer. If they’re not permanently molded to the converter block, try swapping a compatible alternate for each cord.

If changing cords doesn’t help and the converter doesn’t show its working status, try a different compatible converter (the original should be stamped with the necessary output voltage). You may be able to borrow one from a friend or utilize one for test purposes at a local seller of your computer brand.

If a different power adapter doesn’t get you running, there may be a failure in the computer’s internal voltage regulators, something that a technician should verify.

Problem: My entire system locks up a few minutes after I turn the computer on.

Solution: This is a common sign of overheating. Because of their compactness, notebook PCs are more prone to overheating than desktop machines. In most cases it’s attributable to the processor, although other components, such as added memory, can play a contributing role.

If this is a new problem in a system that’s been working fine, be sure the cooling fan is still operating properly, or the port isn’t clogged with lint that needs to be picked out or dislodged with compressed air. If the fan isn’t spinning as it should (or seems to but makes a grinding sound, which may indicate a bearing going out), it may need replacing.

If the fan checks out OK, consult your manufacturer to see if there’s a firmware upgrade that may improve its performance. Also, try improving the airflow around and under the machine by elevating it above the tabletop, etc. If this helps, you may want to try using it with a small riser such as LapWorks Laptop Desk Series ($24.95 and up; www.laptopdesk.net), which helps dissipate heat buildup.

However, if you have a brand new computer that’s overheating, there’s likely a design or construction flaw, so make it the seller’s responsibility to rectify the problem.

Problem: Hibernation mode is important to me, letting me save battery power during the hours I don’t have access to a power outlet. But sometimes when I try to put my laptop into hibernation, it refuses and gives me an error message: “Insufficient System Resources Exist To Complete the API.”

Solution: This is a recognized problem for which Microsoft has provided a fix. It tends to affect PCs with 1GB or more of RAM and running Windows XP with Service Pack 2, Windows XP Tablet PC Edition 2005, or Windows XP Media Center Edition 2005. The glitch occurs whenever Windows’ kernel power manager fails to access the memory resources necessary to prepare the PC for hibernation, which will subsequently be refused until you restart.

If you go to support.microsoft.com/kb/909095, you can download a patch that will correct this.

Problem: I’m getting noticeably less work time out of a battery charge than I used to, but it doesn’t yet seem bad enough to buy a new battery. How can I extend my battery’s life?

Solution: Sadly, rechargeable batteries don’t last forever. You can recharge them only so many times before they’re exhausted, and before they are, they usually show signs of tiring.

To postpone the day you need to replace your current battery, start by accessing your laptop’s power management controls. You’ll probably find these in the System Tray or the Performance And Maintenance section of Windows Control Panel. By switching to the more conservative settings, you can tell your notebook PC to resort to power-saving measures (dimming the display, spinning down the hard drive, slowing down the processor) after a shorter period of unuse.

Also, find out the specific battery model your PC is packing and then go online (if the information isn’t covered in your documentation) and look for the optimal usage habits for it. This may be a factor of how long your battery has been around. Manufacturers have made improvements in battery design over the years, and, in general, the newer a battery is, the more flexible it will be. Many older batteries work best when the laptop utilizes it almost exclusively, running on wall current only during the time it takes the battery to recharge. Recent battery designs are more forgiving of being plugged in a lot, as long as they go through a depletion-and-recharge cycle on a weekly or so basis, and the newest models should be fine as long as they’re cycled occasionally.

Keyboard & Display

Built-in peripherals have their own vulnerabilities.

Problem: Even though I’m typing, it doesn’t register on-screen.

Solution: First, try switching to another program, then restarting, to rule out a temporary software hang-up.

Now connect the keyboard from a desktop machine, either a USB model or one using the older PS/2 jacks, to the laptop. Likely, the external keyboard will work, verifying an internal keyboard problem.

If you’re lucky, you simply have a loose connection, and removing the keyboard, checking the connections, and reseating everything will do the trick. Depending on your model, removal may be as simple as pressing a couple of release latches, or it may require a considerably more complex procedure (removing screws along the bottom of the case, etc.). Regardless, be careful when removing the keyboard. It probably connects to the motherboard via a ribbon cable, and there won’t be much slack.

If this doesn’t help, you’ll probably need to replace the keyboard. See "Get Back To Typing: Tips For Repairing Your Notebook's Keyboard" for more information.

Problem: The machine powers up, but the display doesn’t show anything.

Solution: First determine if the problem lies in the screen itself or in the computer’s video circuitry. Your laptop probably has a video out (most likely a VGA [video graphics array] connector, but some have DVI [digital video input] ports), so try cabling it to an external monitor or to a compatible digital TV, some of which can double as computer monitors. If you don’t see anything now, either, it’s almost certain that you have a failure of the motherboard (see the final section) or the video adapter (a circuit board that may or may not be integrated into the motherboard). Either way, this is a job for a technician.

If your PC’s Desktop appears on the external monitor, then your problem is confined to the laptop display. Unless the LCD has obvious physical damage or has shown prior signs of going bad (dead pixels, lighting irregularities, etc.), and if the laptop provides a reasonably easy means of doing so, open the chassis. Now inspect the power and video cables running from the main body through the hinges and into the lid. Sometimes, poor design or construction can cause the hinges to rub the cables every time you move the lid and, in a worst-case scenario, wear through them. If it’s just the insulation on the power line, with bare wires possibly causing an electrical short, a careful patch job with electrician’s tape should take care of it.

Video data, on the other hand, typically goes through a ribbon cable. If that’s damaged, it will need to be replaced; you’ll have to decide whether you’re up to seeking out the information on your computer and disassembling the screen so you can remove the damaged video cable and connect the replacement. On most notebook computers, the screws that hold the lid shut are concealed behind small removable rubber bumpers, and they may or may not require special tools to turn.

If, however, you’ve already experienced lighting irregularities (obvious flickering, fading, or dimness), this probably indicates failure in one of two replaceable components: the fluorescent backlight (statistically much less likely) or the inverter board (the more probable culprit).

Problem: I need to display my notebook PC on an external monitor, but the view appears scrambled.

Solution: There are two main possible causes here: The monitor doesn’t support the settings you’re using for resolution, color depth, and/or refresh rate, or the laptop isn’t using the proper driver for the monitor.

First, ascertain if the BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) POST (power-on self test) or system splash screen is readable upon launch; these can flash by quickly, so restart Windows if you need to. Assuming that it is, and the display scrambles only when Windows starts to load, restart into Safe Mode by pressing down the F8 key as Windows relaunches. Then, from the Advanced Options menu, use the arrow and ENTER keys to choose Safe Mode. This circumvents your notebook’s current video and driver settings and takes you into a basic VGA mode.

When you see the Windows Desktop again, right-click it and select Properties. Then click the Settings tab and change the video settings to whatever you need for the external monitor. Or install the necessary driver to use the monitor as desired.

Of course, there are many other problems that plague notebooks. The solutions to some of these problems require in-depth explanations that are outside the scope of this article. If you need to replace your notebook's screen, check out "From Broken To Beautiful: Repair Or Replace Your Notebook Screen." If you suspect that your notebook is suffering from memory or hard drive problems, try "Notebook Memory Maladies" or "Hard Drive Hard Knocks." For power issues, see "Power Problems: Troubleshoot Notebook Batteries & Power Adapters."

The Mother Of All Troubles

Pray you never experience this . . . but if you’re going to have component failure at all, the motherboard is a strong possibility.

Problem: My notebook PC has gone haywire, and nothing I do makes any difference. It crashes or freezes on startup, or fails to boot altogether, the keyboard and/or trackpad doesn’t work, and so on.

Solution: If you’ve come to the end of your diagnostic rope, it may be time to consider that your laptop’s motherboard has failed, or is about to. The motherboard contains the computer’s most vital circuitry, plus connections for other circuit boards, and is the central hub for all the signals routed into, out of, and within your computer. Motherboard trouble is crippling, and according to the Gartner study cited earlier, the motherboard and the hard drive are the top two failure-prone components in notebook PCs.

Unfortunately, other problems such as bad RAM, a faulty power supply, a failing hard drive, etc., can cause similar symptoms. Therefore, the motherboard should be the last thing to consider after ruling out everything else, and it takes professional diagnostic equipment to confirm that it has failed.

Part of troubleshooting is being able to recognize that you may be in over your head and that it’s time to call in a technician, as you probably should in this case, unless you’re 100% comfortable with the idea of replacing the motherboard yourself, which is beyond the scope of this article.

Before having any work done, however, get an estimate on parts and labor. Depending on the age, speed, etc., of your notebook PC, you may decide that the money would be better spent on a new one. Also, it’s worth investigating the manufacturer’s Web site, online forums, and other resources to find out if your motherboard failure is a recognized problem entitling you to free repair.

For more information about professional notebook repair, see "Go Pro: Notebook Repairs, For A Price."

by Brian Hodge